Thanksgiving Has Come and Gone

  I must say Thanksgiving of 2012 was peaceful and enjoyable. No stress as I prepared the Thanksgiving feast, it was presented almost on time with no glitches and it was gone in a blink and a nod. I had anticipated  a pairing for each course but it simply did not happen. Not a single person who graced my table was interested in the taste of wine with their meal.  I will not bore you with the details here but may entertain the idea of reviewing each after I have the opportunity to uncork and enjoy at a later date.

 After I was able to pull myself from the turkey coma I had so willingly slipped into on Thanksgiving, two days after I found myself with the opportunity to gaze admiringly at a glass of Chateau Le Pin Pomerol 99. Admittedly a surprise offering and I was not disappointed.  Its origin is from Bordeaux France, it is limited to around 5000-6000 bottles produced each year. It is in a word... Wonderful. Cherry,  more mocha than chocolate, with fruity notes.It certainly is full bodied with a number of complex layers that make it one of the top 5 wines I have been fortunate to enjoy over the past 40 years. If you ever come across someone opening a bottle and willing to part with a taste I encourage you not to hesitate.

  
... Marcus Padulchick

Vineyard vs. Winemaker

What's more important, the vineyard that creates the grapes or the winemaker who creates the wine?  I was once told that any chef can make great food with great ingredients.  Does the same hold true for winemakers?  I worked in kitchens long enough to see some good chefs ruin great ingredients with all the best intentions; so I don't know.  I do know that  great wines are made in the vineyard.  Does that mean that vineyard sites can guarantee a wines quality.  According to the French government and the classification of 1855 the answer is yes.  The soil composition, climate, sun exposure and water conditions all play a part on the grapes quality and complexities. Conditions affecting the quality of the fruit however, don't end there.  The owner's selection of what grape varietals to plant on this site, the vine's age, how they are pruned and trellised, as well as how much fruit is allowed to ripen all affect the quality of the grapes.  Now let's not forget about the weather.  Temperature, rainfall and the possibility of storms (snow, ice, frost, hail) all have possible affect on the outcome of the harvest.

For the sake of argument, let's say conditions for the growing year were perfect.  The vineyard in question is owned by the farmer. Each year he can control all factors of his vineyard, or he can contract control to a winemaker or winery. If he contracts to someone else, they usually dictate how the vineyard is farmed. They determine how the vines are trellised, pruned, how much fruit is allowed to set per vine and when the fruit is harvested.  All have a huge affect on the outcome of the bottled wine, but again, these are all factors determined in the vineyard.  Let's say this farmer kept control of his vineyard this year and grew a perfect crop of grapes.  He harvests the grapes and sells the crop equally to three different wine makers.  Now the remaining outcome of the wine to be made rests in the hands of the winemaker.  He may now choose how to press the fruit, how long to ferment it and with what yeast and what type of barrels to age the wine in and for how long.  The three winemakers that received the farmer's fruit now have many choices to make.  Winemaker #1 crafts a beautiful wine and some critic rates it 89 and a best buy.  Winemaker #2 crafts a beautiful wine and it receives a rating of 92.  Winemaker #3 makes what some feel is a beautiful wine.  All except one well known critic.  He tasted the wine twice and felt the wine was corked.  He rated the wine a 69 and possibly tarnished the reputation of the winemaker.

What's more important, the vineyard, the winemaker or the media?  I still don't know.  Why did I ask the original question?  I am drinking a Chardonnay from the historic "Bacigalupi Vineyard" made by a winemaker I'm not familiar with.  I've had some great wines from the vineyard but have never had a wine from this winery, so I thought I would try it.  The wine is wonderful, rich, oaky, and has a big mouth watering balance. It is complemented with notes of caramel and tropical fruits.  A delicious effort by the winemaker.  I would definitely buy this wine again.  What I found most interesting about this vineyard as I did a little research was this.  In 1973 the owner's of the Bacigalupi Vineyard; located in the Russian River Valley in Sanoma County, sold grapes to Chateau Montelena in the Napa Valley.  So what, happens all the time.  Are you familiar with a little event that happened in 1976 known as "the Judgement in Paris?"  At that time, French wines were touted as the best in the world.  California wines were barely on the map.  The Judgement in Paris was a blind tasting of wines, pitting California against France.  The white wine that won...  1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay.  If your not familiar with the story, you can watch Hollywood's version in the movie "Bottle Shock."  So what makes the wine?


Tom Cook

"In water one sees one's own face;

But in wine one beholds the heart of another."

~ French proverb

#Chardonnay, #BacigalupiVineyard, #ChateauMontelena, #JudgementInParis, #BottleShock

Time to Breathe

While at a recent tasting of cabernet sauvignons, an interesting situation developed.  When conducting my wine tastings I always open the wines as we taste them.  Just as you would if you ordered these wines at a restaurant for dinner.  What happened in this case, we were left with a bottle of wine that when first opened was almost undrinkable.  About an hour later, this wine had become one of the evenings favorites.  So why do some wines go through such a dramatic change when left to "breathe."  In this article we will discuss what happens to a wine as it is left to breathe and open up as the wine becomes introduced to oxygen.  We will taste the bottles in 15 minute increments for 2 hours and record our tasting notes.  The wines will be brought from cellar temperature of 50 F and allowed to slowly come to room temperature during the tasting.  During this process we will discussing the 5 S's of tasting, common faults in wine that can be picked up during this process and the physiology of the taste itself.

By Tom Cook

Grape Adventure

You never know where good times can be found unless you look for them.  This past weekend, my wife planned a little adventure for us with a few friends.  Initially I was not too excited about the plans. The outing was to consist of tasting wines from local wineries at Great Adventure; the "Grape Adventure."  I was looking forward to the company. But I must admit, tasting New Jersey wines didn't excite me very much. After going I have to say, I had a great time.  Call me a snob but most of the wines were not for me.  I have to give credit to Great Adventure. Despite a nasty storm called Sandy and an early Nor' Easter; the event went on.  Who cared about the melting snow and the sounds of generators to power the event.  Mother Nature opened the door with a little sunshine and Grape Adventure was a great success.

 I don't mean to bash New Jersey wineries. There were some very well crafted wines.  Meeting the wine makers and getting into their thought process' always adds to a wine experience for me.  The best part of the experience though was a reminder to live in the moment.  Opportunities pass us by everyday but it is up to us to decide what to do with them.  Local wineries, wherever you live are great experiences for many things.  There  are no better places to gain a greater appreciation for wine.  Immerse yourself in the experience.  Learn about how the wines are made.  Talk to the people who passionately make them and you will find great delight in the backgrounds behind what ended up in the bottle in your hand.  From Sunlight to water to vine and finally the winemaker's hand.  Great tales abound in the process.  Most of which remind me of one thing, life is about moments.  You can live them or let them pass you by.  I'm glad I was a part of this one.  I've said it before and I'll say it again.  If your saving that special bottle for just the right occasion; you're missing the moments.  Your special occasion may never come because you're waiting for it to find you.  Celebrate Wednesday!  Open that bottle and let it be the special occasion.  There's no telling the stories it might tell you if you never take it off the shelf.  May good wines and good times abound!

By Tom Cook

American Politics & Wine

A collective sigh of relief is hard to ignore throughout America as the election for President has come to a close. No matter your affiliation you can be sure most have had their fill of the commercials,     banners,Facebook commentaries and all around insanity that is now politics as usual in the United States.
It most certainly time in my opinion to turn our focus to more civilized activities. Good food paired with a wonderful wine be it Red,White & Blue. I am now thinking forward to American Thanksgiving and the menu I will be preparing, each course paired with a wine to enhance the experience of the day. I  am now off to ponder all that comes into making Thanksgiving a day of thanks, not just  for good drink but more importantly family and friends.

... Marcus Padulchick

A Visit From Sandy

I must say that after a visit from Sandy if you have not put your life into perspective I am not sure when that will unfold for you. If you have no idea who Sandy was allow me to explain. Sandy was an ill tempered, fast living, take no prisoners kind of a woman. Sandy was the "Storm of a Life Time" "The Frankenstorm" because it came in over the Halloween period of 2012.  Sandy in a word was one big hurricane. Yes, just the other day she stopped by for a visit.Sandy brought down rain, and turned up winds of over 80 knots (that's around 92 miles per hour for those of you who do not sail or fly aircraft). Lets just say when she came into New Jersey she was pissed. What went with her was this, no power, no water, no heat,no internet, no television,no cell phones for days. At least that was the case where I live in NJ. What has this to do with wine you may be asking yourself. Allow me an indulgence for a brief moment. OK  I am better now. Sandy provided an opportunity to slow down, to actually relax. Sitting in my living room, candles placed here and there providing a flicking dance of light playing off the walls, ceiling and anyone who came into the space in that moment. What came along with all that had went was a few bottles of nectar worth tasting if not to be enjoyed again. I opened a slightly chilled 2005 Crozes hermitage (Cave de Train) This wine was full fruit. To the nose, black current,roasted notes and a wisp of blackberry.  Dry on the palate, yet balanced with tastes of red fruit all around. Finish, cherry,blackberry, and ever so light with spice. If you can locate a bottle I suggest a 2005-2008. The experience is certainly worth enjoying, and I am not referring to a visit from Sandy or any of her relatives anytime soon.

Marcus Padulchick