Summer Sparklers tasting notes

Let me start by saying that 4 out of 19 bottles tasted were "off."  What do I mean by "off?"  The bottles were improperly stored, causing the corks to dry out and fail.  This in turn allows oxygen into the bottle and causes the wine to age in the bottle as is it has been left open; often causing an off-odor or caramel like / maderized flavor.  The importance of this information is: 1) Always buy wine from a reputable wine dealer.  2) Ask questions about your stores storage methods.  3) Ask the store about their return policies.  If they won't refund your money or exchange bottles of returned wine, shop at another store.  The ideal storage of wines is at 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit and 65-75% humidity.  The bottles should also be stored on their sides to help eliminate corks from drying out.  That being said, most people don't want to shop in a store that is 50-60 degrees and humid. They also want to see their bottles standing up so they can read the labels.  So... beware, don't buy dusty bottles.  Shop in stores that are busy and have a high turn over of their products.  This way you are less likely to get a bottle that has been stored upright on a shelf too long and possibly bad.  It only supports what I've always said; don't save the wine for a special occasion, the wine is the occasion!

1) Marteluzzu Prosecco; Italy NV
This wine has a slightly doughy nose with scents of strawberry and citrus and finishes in the mouth slightly sweet with accents of lemon peel, peach and apple.
83, drink now.

2) Zardetto Prosecco; Italy NV
The nose gave off scents of honey, anise, biscuits, rose petals and lemon peel.  In the mouth it was slightly tart  and confirmed flavors of the same.
84, drink now.  Approximate retail, $12.99

3) Schloss Biebrich, sekt; Germany NV
This wine carried an aroma of candied orange peel. While the wine was slightly sweet with a slight bitter finish, it drank with flavors cake batter and stonefruit with a creamy mouthfeel.
BEST BUY 84, drink now. Approximate retail, $4.99, Trader Joe's exclusive.

4) Gruet, Brut; New Mexico NV
The nose gives hints of toast and orange marmalade. The wine is dry and has flavors of berry and citrus, with a slightly short bitter finish.
83, drink now. Approximate retail, $10.99

5) Gruet, Blanc de Noir; New Mexico NV
Aromas of cinnamon danish and pear.  The wine drank with flavors of apple, pear and pineapple.
85, drink now. Approximate retail, $10.99

6) Gruet, Brut Rose; New Mexico NV
While this wine gave off aromas of strawberry rhubarb pie, it drank with flavors of sour cherry, honey and red licorice and hinted at flavors of dough.
85, drink now.  Approximate retail, $11.99

7) Gruet, Demi-Sec; New Mexico NV
Aromas of melon and honey and drank with flavors of green apple, honey dew and creamy vanilla finish.
84, drink now.  Approximate retail, $10.99

8) Charles de Fere, Blanc de Blanc, reserve Bru; France NV
This wine starts out with floral and bread dough notes and leads into tastes of almond paste and pear with a nice creamy balance.
BEST BUY 88, drink now.  Approximate retail, $8.99

9) Varichon & Clerc "Privilege," Blanc de Blanc; France NV
This wine was very enjoyable. It starts with pineapple on the nose which continues through to the palate with the addition of blackberry.  This wine is pure fruit driven, clean and crisp with no yeasty tones at all.
BEST BUY 90, drink now.  Approximate retail, $10.49

10) Scharffenberger, Brut; Anderson Valley, California NV
Not tasted due to an "off" bottle.
Approximate retail, $15.99

11) Schramsberg, Blanc de Blanc, Brut vintage 2006; California
This wine is 100% Chardonnay and has aromas of toasted nuts, cocoa and pastry dough.  It carries through to be slightly sweet with flavors of citrus and pineapple.
83, drink now.  Approximate retail, $20.99

12) Schramsberg, Blanc de Noir, Brut vintage 2006; California
This wine is made up of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay.  Aromas of carrot juice give way to tastes of berry and pineapple. This example is fairly complex with a tangy acidity.
84, drink now.  Approximate retail, $25.99

13) Montaudon, Brut; Champagne, France NV   375ml
Not tasted due to an "off" bottle.
Approximate retail, $15.99

14) Freixenet cordon negro, Brut; Spain NV
 A nose of flowery hand soap and baked apples. The wine itself is very dry, clean and crisp with flavors of lemon peel.  Overall not very well balanced.
82, drink now. Approximate retail, $8.99

15) Mumm Napa cuvee M; Napa Valley, California NV
Aromas of baked bread, orange cream, honey and grapefruit. The wine tastes of pink grapefruit, meringue and mandarin orange.
83, drink now.  Approximate retail, $17.99

16) Mumm Napa, Brut prestige; Napa Valley, California
Aromas of baked bread and orange carry through to tastes of lime, toast and tart apple. The wine has a good balance and nice mouthfeel.
85, drink now.  Approximate retail, $17.99

17) Jacquart, Brut Mosaique; Champagne, France NV
The wine had a salty aroma of steamed shellfish that quickly blew off to scents of buttered rolls.  when tasted the wine was rich and dry with a buttery acidity.  With flavors of brioche, this is classic Champagne.  Try pairing with a ripe Brie.
89, drink now or hold 1-3 years.  Approximate retail, $23.99

18) Veuve Clicquot, Brut; Champagne, France NV
Not tasted due to an "off" bottle.
Approximate retail, $39.99
19) Nicolas Feuillatte, Brut; Champagne, France NV
Not tasted due to an "off" bottle.
Approximate retail, $34.99 
 

Summer Sparklers

As I have gotten older, there are still certain things that bring out a childlike exuberance within me.  Sparklers still touch off that excitement for me  Not the ones from our youth that gave us 30 seconds of bright light, and left you holding a glowing metal rod.  I'm talking about sparkling wines, that awe-inspiring elixir from every great celebration.  In this issue we review 16 sparklers and discuss the difference between Champagne and sparkling wine.  We need to break the myth though, that Champagne and sparkling wines are all expensive and only to be enjoyed on special occasions.  In fact, they are almost the perfect food wine and can be paired with anything from sushi to steak.  My favorite pairing I have ever heard suggested is Krug Champagne and popcorn.  It may seem far-fetched, but tastes great together.

What is the difference between Champagne and sparkling wine.  While all Champagne's are sparkling wines, only sparkling wines from the Champagne region of France may be called Champagne's.  A wine with "méthode Champenois," or "méthode traditionnelle"  on the label means it is a sparkling wine that was produced in the traditional Champagne method.  In Champagne three traditional grape varieties are used; Chardonnay (white), Pinot Noir (black), and Pinot Meunier (black).  Sparkling wine production around the world uses a varying list of grapes differing from country to country.  In the United States, Pinot Blanc (white) is sometimes added to the mix for Champagne style sparkling wines.  The Loire Valley of France uses Chenin Blanc (white) in its cremants.  Germany uses Riesling (white) and Elbling (white) in its sekt.  In Italy, Muscat (white to near black), Brachetto (black) and Prosecco (white) are used for spumante.  Spain uses Xarel-lo (white), Macabeo (white), Parellada (white) and sometimes Chardonnay (white) in its cava.  In Australia they even use Shiraz (black).

Let us explore  some of the common misconceptions about Champagne.  Dom Perignon; born Pierre Perignon in 1640; did not invent Champagne.  He is also not responsible for the famous quote: "Come quickly, I am drinking the stars!" after tasting his creation for the first time.  The quote appears for the first time some time in the late 19th century in a printed advertisement.  Dom Perignon did try to develop methods to avoid refermentation of wine within the bottle; but so did all other winemakers in cold regions.  Wine making practices of the era would sometimes leave the fermentation process incomplete as Fall weather would cool the cellars.  Come Spring time, as the weather warmed up, the fermentation process often restarted within the bottled wines causing them to explode.  The process did not become controlled and desirable until early scientist's like Chaptal refined the process.

Why is this all important to understand sparkling wines?  For the simple fact that Dom Perignon is synonymous with Champagne due to marketing.  We think of all sparkling as Champagne.  We assume it to always be expensive and don't dare open a bottle except as a celebration.  All again due to marketing and perhaps music videos.  Be daring... open a bottle of sparkling wine for dinner tonight or at your next barbecue.  I give you permission, you'll enjoy it.  And by the way, our top pick in this tasting is Varichon et Clerc Blanc de Blancs "Privilege."  It is a French sparkling wine produced in the méthode traditionnelle, and can be found for around $10. For full tasting notes on all the wines tasted,  please read through our review section.

Tom Cook

"Champagne!  In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it."                           
        ~Napoleon Bonaparte