Summer Sparklers

As I have gotten older, there are still certain things that bring out a childlike exuberance within me.  Sparklers still touch off that excitement for me  Not the ones from our youth that gave us 30 seconds of bright light, and left you holding a glowing metal rod.  I'm talking about sparkling wines, that awe-inspiring elixir from every great celebration.  In this issue we review 16 sparklers and discuss the difference between Champagne and sparkling wine.  We need to break the myth though, that Champagne and sparkling wines are all expensive and only to be enjoyed on special occasions.  In fact, they are almost the perfect food wine and can be paired with anything from sushi to steak.  My favorite pairing I have ever heard suggested is Krug Champagne and popcorn.  It may seem far-fetched, but tastes great together.

What is the difference between Champagne and sparkling wine.  While all Champagne's are sparkling wines, only sparkling wines from the Champagne region of France may be called Champagne's.  A wine with "méthode Champenois," or "méthode traditionnelle"  on the label means it is a sparkling wine that was produced in the traditional Champagne method.  In Champagne three traditional grape varieties are used; Chardonnay (white), Pinot Noir (black), and Pinot Meunier (black).  Sparkling wine production around the world uses a varying list of grapes differing from country to country.  In the United States, Pinot Blanc (white) is sometimes added to the mix for Champagne style sparkling wines.  The Loire Valley of France uses Chenin Blanc (white) in its cremants.  Germany uses Riesling (white) and Elbling (white) in its sekt.  In Italy, Muscat (white to near black), Brachetto (black) and Prosecco (white) are used for spumante.  Spain uses Xarel-lo (white), Macabeo (white), Parellada (white) and sometimes Chardonnay (white) in its cava.  In Australia they even use Shiraz (black).

Let us explore  some of the common misconceptions about Champagne.  Dom Perignon; born Pierre Perignon in 1640; did not invent Champagne.  He is also not responsible for the famous quote: "Come quickly, I am drinking the stars!" after tasting his creation for the first time.  The quote appears for the first time some time in the late 19th century in a printed advertisement.  Dom Perignon did try to develop methods to avoid refermentation of wine within the bottle; but so did all other winemakers in cold regions.  Wine making practices of the era would sometimes leave the fermentation process incomplete as Fall weather would cool the cellars.  Come Spring time, as the weather warmed up, the fermentation process often restarted within the bottled wines causing them to explode.  The process did not become controlled and desirable until early scientist's like Chaptal refined the process.

Why is this all important to understand sparkling wines?  For the simple fact that Dom Perignon is synonymous with Champagne due to marketing.  We think of all sparkling as Champagne.  We assume it to always be expensive and don't dare open a bottle except as a celebration.  All again due to marketing and perhaps music videos.  Be daring... open a bottle of sparkling wine for dinner tonight or at your next barbecue.  I give you permission, you'll enjoy it.  And by the way, our top pick in this tasting is Varichon et Clerc Blanc de Blancs "Privilege."  It is a French sparkling wine produced in the méthode traditionnelle, and can be found for around $10. For full tasting notes on all the wines tasted,  please read through our review section.

Tom Cook

"Champagne!  In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it."                           
        ~Napoleon Bonaparte