Vertical Tastings

At a recent get together with friends, the topic of vertical wine tasting came up.  They were intrigued about what it meant to do a vertical wine tasting and why you would do them.  In my effort to find more reasons to drink wine and educate my friends we will examine some of the reasons to age wine.  We will discuss the history of Simi from Sonoma County, California and examine the Cabernet from their Landslide vineyard.

What is a vertical wine tasting and how do you do them?  A vertical wine tasting is simply a wine tasting of wines all from the same vineyard but of different vintages.  You then taste the wines in vertical order from oldest to youngest.  You taste the  oldest wine first and not last because it will be the most delicate and subtle.  The youngest wines will be Bolder and harsher.  If they were tasted first they could mask the flavors of the older wines.

To understand the merits of a vertical wine tasting, you must first understand why you would age or cellar a wine.  When my friend asked me this he wanted to know what happens to a wine as it ages; does it taste different?  The short answer is yes.  In the same manner that most wines are different from one vintage to the next; they are equally different as they age.  Imagine if you will the conversation you might have with a 6 year old, and then again talking to the same person in their 20's, 40's and 60's or even older.  As the person ages, the conversation gets more complex, more elegant.  Wine evolves in much the same way, and just like the person it too eventually dies or turns to vinegar.  Well how do I know how long to age a wine?  If only we had crystal balls, this would be an easy question to answer.  Some people prefer conversation with the 20 year old, and some the 40 year old and so on.  My best advice is to find a reviewer who's tasting notes or style you agree with.  Then follow their cellaring advice as well until you find a median age or style you enjoy.  Or you can buy several bottles of the same wine and keep opening them in 6 month intervals.  Take careful tasting notes and compare them over the life of your collection.

So now we circle back to the same question; why cellar wine?  Have you ever gone to a restaurant, looked at the age of some of the bottles and then looked at the prices?  Don't they usually get more expensive the older they get?  If the wine didn't get better. why would they bother to keep it for so long? Reason #2 for aging wine, they increase in value.  Why then are some wines made to be drunk young and some wines made to age?  Sometimes it is because of the type of grape used in making the wine, other times it is due to the quality of the juice used to make the wine.  How the winemaker handles the grapes is also a factor.  The longer the winemaker leaves the grape skins in contact with the juice during the fermentation process, the more tannins are extracted from the grapes.  In turn, the higher the ability of the wine to age.

The wine we chose for our vertical tasting was Simi Landslide Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.  The Landslide Vineyard is a 170 acre vineyard in the southern Alexander Valley.  The Landslide Vineyard has numerous soil types and microclimates that were created by an ancient volcanic landslide from nearby Mount St. Helena.  This diversity of soil type and topography result in a varying bud break, flowering, veraison and harvest times in the different vineyard blocks.  Along with these complexities, Simi has planted nine different clones of Cabernet Sauvignon and small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec.  To see how these factors translate into the bottle, please read our tasting notes. We tasted a 5 year vertical from the Landslide Vineyard starting with the 2001 vintage.  We then tasted the 2005-2008 vintages.  My friends were quite shocked to taste how different each vintage was.  This was a true testament to the diversity of the vineyard site and grape selections

Simi Winery has a long and varied history as well.  Started by Giuseppe and Pietro Simi, two immigrants brought to California from Tuscany, Italy by the gold rush.  By 1876 they had settled in San Fransisco and started Simi Winery.  When they discovered Sonoma County it reminded them of home.  In 1881 they moved their winemaking operation to Healdsburg in northern Sonoma County. In 1890 they completed construction of Simi's first stone cellar; built into the hillside from native basault for natural insulation.

Early success led them to double the size of their cellars in 1904.  Tragically both brothers died shortly there after within four months of each other; leaving Giuseppe's daughter Isabelle to take over management of the winery at the age of 18.  Isabelle Simi married banker Fred Haig, together they ran the winery until Prohibition began in 1920 forbidding them to sell wine.  Although they were forced to sell most of the vineyard property to save the winery itself; they continued to produce and cellar their wines for the 15 years Prohibition lasted.  When Prohibition ended December of 1933 they were ready with a large stock of perfectly cellared wines to sell.  They celebrated by planting a grove of redwood trees around the winery that still stands today.

Isabelle established Simi's first tasting room the following year out of a 25,000 gallon Champagne tank.  Isabelle continued to run Simi Winery until 1970, when she retired and sold the winery at the age of 84.  Simi returned to it's beginings in 1982 by acquiring the Landslide Vineyard in Alexander Valley.  In the following years Simi continued to acquire estate vineyards in both the Alexander Valley and Russian River Valley.  These changes have in part lead to the critical acclaim today that is Simi Winery

Tom Cook

"wine is sunlight held together by water"

              Galileo Galilei



#SimiWinery, #SonomaCounty, #Cabernet, #LandslideVineyard, #AlexanderValley, #RussianRiverValley

To Beaujolais or not Beaujolais

In this edition we take a look at a wonderful assortment of summer wines. If you are like me, you know red wines are not only to be enjoyed three months out of the year, and whites for the other three.  To start, we taste through a flight of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais‘.  Do they deserve all the hype that has garnered the 2009 vintage, or not.  We promise to find out.  Next, we taste a mixture of Zinfandels.  Not the sticky, sweet wanna be “white” version that has become synonymous with the word zinfandel; but the dark red brooding variety that barbecues beg for.   Finally, we round out this edition’s tasting’s with a quirky mixture of white wines that prove to be anything but ordinary.  There is not a chardonnay or pinot grigio to be found here.

I must state that Beaujolais’ are one of my favorite wines, but unfortunately, it is also one of the most misunderstood wines of Burgundy.  In the 80’s the region kicked off mass marketing campaigns to sell it’s Beaujolais Nouveau’s. So successful was this marketing, that now every year on the third Thursday of November; designated “Beaujolais Nouveau Day,” we look for the release of these wines. Grapes for Beaujolais Nouveau are harvested in August-September, fermented for a short time and released right before Thanksgiving complete with a race to get them to market.  These wines are intended to be consumed before the new year and not aged at all. Beaujolais wines, made from the same Gamay grape are quite different.  These wines tend to be food friendly as well, light in body, fruitful  and have a firm acidity.  The biggest difference is the ability to age.

Beaujolais is the southernmost and largest district in Burgundy.  It accounts for about 50% of all wine production in Burgundy. The district can be divided into three major appellations; Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages, and Cru Beaujolais.  About 50% of the district’s wine production comes from Beaujolais.  About half of this is sold as “Beaujolais Nouveau.”  Beaujolais-Villages produces about 25% of the district’s annual production.  The remaining 25% of wine production comes from the Cru Beaujolais.  This zone is situated in the northern third of the Beaujolais District and is considered the best terroir for the Gamay grape. Cru Beaujolais is made up of ten communes or villages.  These villages are: St-Amour, Julienas, Chenas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnie, Cote de Brouilly and Brouilly.

The 2009 vintage in Beaujolais was one of the best the region has ever seen,  or was it?  I seem to recall George Duboeuf; one of the top producers in Beaujolais; making similar claims about the 2003 vintage.  When the 2003’s were released, I tasted many bottles and put away a small amount of my favorites.  I only wish I was smart enough to put away more. Duboeuf claimed that the 2003 vintage was unlike any he had ever experienced.  The wines were touted as having great aging potential.  My experience had been that although Beaujolais were wonderful food friendly wines, their potential for longevity was very short lived.  George was right! These 2003 have been nothing short of amazing, and the better bottles are just coming into their own now.  If you are lucky enough to find a bottle, what a treat for thanksgiving dinner.  So what about 2009, can lightning strike twice so close together?  Duboeuf claims 2009 is “The Vintage of  a Lifetime.”  I would have to agree.  While some of his top wines are not pleasant to drink today, their futures will be talked about for a long time to come.

While Beaujolais have always been a favorite of mine, I hope you will welcome them into your daily regiments as well.  Take them on a hike with a loaf of bread and your favorite cheese, or try them with grilled chicken.  In this edition we reviewed eight of George Duboeuf’s wines.  All of the wines were truly wonderful in there own way.  The Beaujolais-Villages is probably the best indicator of the quality of the vintage as it can be made up of wines from the entire region.  It’s nose held a symphony of aromas that eluded to what lay ahead. While soft and quaffable in the mouth, it left me wanting more of what the nose had to offer.  The real gems were the Morgon, and the two Moulin-a-Vents’.  Two were cellar selections, and one was ready to take to the party.  The Moulin-a-Vent, Domaine des Rosiers would be a fine addition to any affair.  For full tasting notes on all the wines tasted,  please read through our review section.  Have a wonderful summer.

Tom Cook

Summer Sparklers

As I have gotten older, there are still certain things that bring out a childlike exuberance within me.  Sparklers still touch off that excitement for me  Not the ones from our youth that gave us 30 seconds of bright light, and left you holding a glowing metal rod.  I'm talking about sparkling wines, that awe-inspiring elixir from every great celebration.  In this issue we review 16 sparklers and discuss the difference between Champagne and sparkling wine.  We need to break the myth though, that Champagne and sparkling wines are all expensive and only to be enjoyed on special occasions.  In fact, they are almost the perfect food wine and can be paired with anything from sushi to steak.  My favorite pairing I have ever heard suggested is Krug Champagne and popcorn.  It may seem far-fetched, but tastes great together.

What is the difference between Champagne and sparkling wine.  While all Champagne's are sparkling wines, only sparkling wines from the Champagne region of France may be called Champagne's.  A wine with "méthode Champenois," or "méthode traditionnelle"  on the label means it is a sparkling wine that was produced in the traditional Champagne method.  In Champagne three traditional grape varieties are used; Chardonnay (white), Pinot Noir (black), and Pinot Meunier (black).  Sparkling wine production around the world uses a varying list of grapes differing from country to country.  In the United States, Pinot Blanc (white) is sometimes added to the mix for Champagne style sparkling wines.  The Loire Valley of France uses Chenin Blanc (white) in its cremants.  Germany uses Riesling (white) and Elbling (white) in its sekt.  In Italy, Muscat (white to near black), Brachetto (black) and Prosecco (white) are used for spumante.  Spain uses Xarel-lo (white), Macabeo (white), Parellada (white) and sometimes Chardonnay (white) in its cava.  In Australia they even use Shiraz (black).

Let us explore  some of the common misconceptions about Champagne.  Dom Perignon; born Pierre Perignon in 1640; did not invent Champagne.  He is also not responsible for the famous quote: "Come quickly, I am drinking the stars!" after tasting his creation for the first time.  The quote appears for the first time some time in the late 19th century in a printed advertisement.  Dom Perignon did try to develop methods to avoid refermentation of wine within the bottle; but so did all other winemakers in cold regions.  Wine making practices of the era would sometimes leave the fermentation process incomplete as Fall weather would cool the cellars.  Come Spring time, as the weather warmed up, the fermentation process often restarted within the bottled wines causing them to explode.  The process did not become controlled and desirable until early scientist's like Chaptal refined the process.

Why is this all important to understand sparkling wines?  For the simple fact that Dom Perignon is synonymous with Champagne due to marketing.  We think of all sparkling as Champagne.  We assume it to always be expensive and don't dare open a bottle except as a celebration.  All again due to marketing and perhaps music videos.  Be daring... open a bottle of sparkling wine for dinner tonight or at your next barbecue.  I give you permission, you'll enjoy it.  And by the way, our top pick in this tasting is Varichon et Clerc Blanc de Blancs "Privilege."  It is a French sparkling wine produced in the méthode traditionnelle, and can be found for around $10. For full tasting notes on all the wines tasted,  please read through our review section.

Tom Cook

"Champagne!  In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it."                           
        ~Napoleon Bonaparte

BIOS

Tom Cook:
I have worked in the food and beverage industry for 30 years.  You might say that I have earned my credentials as a wine critic through my life’s working experiences.  When all my friends were drinking beer and getting drunk, I was drinking Burgundies and Cabernets after work with my colleagues.  I have been working in restaurants since I was sixteen.

In my first job as a waiter, I was taught how to cook tableside.  It was here that I began to get exposed to fine wines and some of the more pleasurable things in life.  I was barely old enough to drink legally, yet I was hooked.  Someone introduced me to a Corton-Charlemagne. The experience of tasting a white wine that tasted of fresh strawberries, changed me forever.  My thirst for knowledge about wine has continued since that day.

Shortly after this time, I attended and graduated The Culinary Institute of America.  My work as a chef continued to grow my palate as I was exposed to a wider variety of foods and wines.  My passions eventually lead me to leave the kitchen and move back into the dining room.  Here my exposure to wine began to blossom.  Experiences lead me through working introductions to such people as Kevin Zraly, Bobby Flay, Tom Collichio, Andre Soltner and Walter Schieb.  Some of my more pleasurable moments have been working wine tastings/dinners. The most notable events have been; a dinner tasting for 3 decades of Opus One, Quintessa, Vineyard 29, a vertical tasting of Chateau Palmer back to 1895 and a dinner tasting event of 1929 Bordeaux’s.

As a very dear friend once told me, Life is all about “moments.”  Special moments that forever live within our memories to create the fabric of our lives.  So often I have had people tell me they have a bottle that they are saving for a special occasion.  I tell them that the bottle is the occasion.  My hope is that in some small way my experiences will help guide you to be able to create your own “moments.”  Good wine and good friends to all.

About You Me And Wine

Youmeandwine.blogspot.com was started by Marcus Padulchick and Tom Cook. Our goal is to educate and inform the common man and woman.  Youmeandwine.blogspot.com is for anyone that wants to be able to walk into a liquor store and be able to make an informed decision about their purchase. For years we have both been restauranteurs and advocates of wine; but the publications available have just not been what we were looking for.  The Wine Spectator may as well be charged for prostitution with all the paid advertising they publish along with their reviews. Parker is great for publishing an honest review, but very often I don't agree with his reviews.  He may rate a wine 95 and rave about it, but if I were to take that bottle home to drink tonight I could be very disappointed.  Very often highly rated wines are meant to be cellared before they are consumed and need time to evolve in the bottle. These are things I would want to know.

If you are looking for a little background information about the wines you are choosing as well as an honest review, this may be the place for you.  We do not take advertising money.  Our reviews are generated to let you know if a wine is drinking great today or if it would be a great selection to lay down in your cellar.  Youmeandwine.blogspot.com is a reference source for those who want to learn about wine.  You don't need to feel intimidated when looking for something to enjoy.  To quote Benjamin Franklin, "Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance."  Our intention is to help you make wine purchases easier and with less tensions.

Please read our reviews, reference our glossary and read our articles.  Next time you walk into a liquor store to purchase wine for your next occasion, our hope is to have made you more at ease with the experience. From reading labels to previewing what is in the bottle to creating dialogue over your next bottle; we want to create a little more enjoyment in your next bottle and remove a little of the mystery.  My best advice is this: please don't save your best wine for a special occasion.  Make any day special, the wine is the occasion.  Good wine and good friends.

Tom Cook

In water one sees one's own face;

But in wine one beholds the heart of another.

~ French proverb

"What contemptible scoundrel stole the cork from my lunch?"
~W.C. Fields